In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet
enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves
to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to
write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that
in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably
more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are
times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the
discovery and defense of the *new*. The world is often unkind to new
talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night, I
experienced something new: an extraordinary meal from a singularly
unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have
challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross
understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have
made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau’s famous motto,
“Anyone can cook.” But I realize, only now do I truly understand
what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist; but a great
artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble
origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau’s, who is,
in this critic’s opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in
France. I will be returning to Gusteau’s soon, hungry for more. -
Anton Ego (Ratatouille)